Posted by: Richard | November 11, 2009

Hot and Sweaty in Bangkok

Well, I’ve seen hot and I’ve seen hot, but it is really too hot here in BKK.  To quote a Good Morning Vietnam line “it’s hot and wet.  that’s nice if you’re with a lady, ain’t no good if you’re in the jungle”…..

Bangkok is a giant city, with lovely palaces, vibrant streets and great food.  It also has to have the highest numbers of dirty old men I’ve yet seen.  Our first night here, near Jim Thompson’s silk factory, we stopped for a beer on a patio and watched the parade of old white (nay, pink) men waddling down the street.  The fanny pack (hip pack to UK guests) was prominent, as was a giant gut on most of these tourists. 

Onto more pressing matters…the food is incredible.  Although right now at breakfast, lynn is making bad faces at the hotel pad thai she is pushing to the edge of her plate.  We’ve found an old popular vegetarian restaurant (Mai Kaydee’s) off Khao San road.  Oh boy oh boy oh boy.  It is good.  No A/C, so we pay for the palate pleasing pleasure we are perusing through sweat.  We went for lunch yesterday and then in a unanimous vote, we decided to return for dinner.  My favorite was the Tom Yom soup (so spicy) though the curry and pad thai were also good.  Just thinking of the food right now makes me hungry. Not really, as we just had an enormous breakfast.  I get plain noodles and add crushed peanuts, a ton of greenery (herbs and onions etc), an assortment of sauces and some sliced chili’s.  Good stuff.

Back to Khao San road.  It is a very cool area (much cooler than where we are staying – more on that later).  In the daytime, full of thai people it looks very cool.  In the evening, it is 90% foreigner….No, not the band, the people (though I did hear a cover version of hot blooded).  It is fun and vibrant but a bit like West Edmonton Mall’s bourbon street.  Not entirely real, but not necessarily bad (though truth be told, I don’t remember West Ed to be that good).

Onto our hotel, we booked a very nice hotel on tripadvisor.  Why? I don’t know.  It’s easy might be the only reason.  It is rated high and is very nice.  The problem, it is in the business district and there is nothing nearby to do.   This means travel. We have been advised that the best way to travel is via the skytrain as it is cheap and quick.  For two days, I believed this, but last night I gave up, and we took a taxi.  As reference, the skytrain/boat combo cost $3.20 and took 75 minutes. The taxi cost $2.25 and took 15 minutes.  I need to stop listening to people about this.  While the hotel is poorly located, after a day of walking in 35 degree heat, the huge outdoor pool is heavenly…..so, now that we know about taxis maybe the location isn’t that bad.

Highlights so far:

  • Seeing a giant rat walking down an outdoor market
  • The strange sensation of being served by a ladyboy (truth be told, more man than either lady or boy)
  • All the glorious outdoor markets, which are almost completely full of brand new crap that do not interest either lynn nor myself
  • Swimming in the cold pool
  • Eating at Mai Kaydee’s
  • Taking the water taxi along the river (we were sitting right beside the driver and got the full experience)
  • 60 minute thai massage with yellow herbs in the famous massage school in Wat Po (note that although Lynn’s massage was the best of her life, my massage was rather bland)
  • People constantly trying to swindle us
  • Watching a fellow (a loaded aussie actually) eat a scorpion from the man with the beetle cart.

Tomorrow we leave for Luang Prabang in Laos.  I’m very excited to get out of the city and LP looks very nice.  We want to be pretend Mahout’s (elephant trainers) for a day or two and soak up the atmosphere.  From LP, we make our trip down towards the capital of Ventiane and then to Angkor Wat (where we have been instructed by cheezer and Shauna Mac that we must, Must, MUST go here).  So, being compliant and agreeable people, we are going there.

Finally, still loving the netbook, but my fingers are getting bigger or the keys smaller as typing is tougher….

PS – Lynn thinks that we should change a previous title in Hong Kong to “Sweet and Sour in Hong Kong”

Posted by: Richard | November 7, 2009

Dim Sum in HK

Let’s start off here with honesty: I’m not normally a fan on chinese food.  Being a vegetarian, pretty much everything is off limits.  What is usually available is fried vegetables in a gelatinous sauce.  Yuck.  Being in Hong Kong, I thought that maybe we just needed to get to the real thing, and real cantonese food would be delicious.

So for brunch, we went to one of the better dim sum restos in HK.  It looked good, packed full of people, and we were the only obvious tourists.  Right from the start, I realized that my hopes for a vegetarian oasis were not going to be realized.  When asking about vegetarian options, the waiter recommended some pork options “you don’t eat pork either?”.  After some discussion we decided to have some shrimp options, otherwise we were going home with only tea.  It was average, except for the deep fried long spring rolls with shrimp.  Which, like anything deep fried, were exceptional.

While we were eating our Cantonese dim sum, our guidebook pointed out that there actually was a veggie Shanghaiese resto in Causeway Bay area.  Excited (and still quite hungry) we made the journey.  Unfortunately it had moved, but Lynn was incredible, asking shop keepers over a 10 block journey where the restaurant had moved to.  Eventually we found the new location and sat down for another meal, only 90 minutes after our last one.

Now, this meal was good.  Excellent dumplings, sweet and sour tofu balls (lynn’s favorite) and my favorite of cold noodles with about a dozen sauces.  It was a bit like Buddha’s veggie in CalGary.

After these two meals, we waddled around for a bit, eventually getting on one of the trams (which  I loved) and then coming back to the hotel for a swim, a read and a nice rest.

At dinner, we went to  japanese restaurant, where for $5 Lynn got a deep fried soft shell crab.  She was happy.  Well as happy as can be when the people at the table behind us had exceptionally bad body odour.  It is rare when the stink coming off of a person overpowers the smell of raw fish, but tonight it did.  It reminded me of going for trumpet lessons when I was 12 at Bonavista Music.  My teacher (who shall remain nameless) was one of the worst smelling people I have ever met.  I remember walking into his office and the smell overpowering and making me want to wretch.  Within 5 minutes though, I would be accustomed to the smell and would not even notice it.  We kept waiting for the smell to dissipate last night, but no such luck….

Today is our last day in HK, and the plans are for a foot massage, a ride in the bay and a bit of a rest by the pool.  Bangkok tomorrow should be manic.

Posted by: Richard | November 7, 2009

Hong Kong

This is my first effort at typing on the netbook.  Although I was advised that this would be impossible, it is actually much like typing on a regular computer, even with my chubbby fingers.

We started off with a stop over in Frankfurt.  Expecting something incredible, we took the train into town, walked  in the rain for an hour and then went back to sleep in the terminal.  Frankfurt is pretty…unremarkable.  A couple of nice buildings and lots of expensive cars and golf shops.  I did love the trees on the train into the city though.  That and the pretzel sandwich’s….

Coming into HK, wow!  I have never been to this part of the world, and this is one beautiful city.  Big mountains,  big buildings and everything a little bit different.

We are staying in MongKok in Kowloon.  This is where people live, and it is fun to be a rare tourist in this part of town (as opposed to HK proper, which abounds with tourists).

Highlights:

  • the architecture – especially the narrow (30′ by 10′) 30+ story sky scrapers in mongkok
  • drinking a beer in an outdoor food stall in Temple street (alas, the food wasn’t as good as the ambiance)
  • watching a guy drive a car while we were having the beers above. This was so good as the guys expression was that of a man terrified that he was driving, he was trying to push the wheel away from him and shy his face away from the road.
  • the food.  i can’t believe how good everything has been. and Cheep cheep!
  • the indian restaurant (curry in a hurry).  we’ve eaten a meal there everyday so far….
  • roof-top pools.  enough said.
  • the mid-level escalators and the life around them.  bars, restaurants, people.  incredible stuff
  • the vibrancy of the city
  • the advertising.  people’s faces in the ads are so expressive.

Two more days here, then we head to Bangkok.

Posted by: Richard | October 31, 2009

Really chuffed

I am really honoured to have been recognized as one of the Top 40 Calgarians under the age of 40 by Avenue magazine last week.  It was great to meet 39 others who are working hard building local businesses, helping others and making a difference in the city.  We had a great celebration at Heritage Park Thursday night and there is a short piece in the November Avenue magazine on each of us.  The writer of my piece did a great job (http://www.avenuecalgary.com/content/richard-campbell).

 

Posted by: Richard | September 18, 2009

Hitting the mark!!!

Well, it’s not official yet, but it looks like we have met our fundraising targets from our Walk.   This is a great feeling for Lynn and I and I wanted to thank everybody for their support, it is truly appreciated.

Posted by: Richard | August 26, 2009

Photos to Val D’Isere

Digital photography is a killer.  It is too easy to take too many photos.  We took around 3,500 photos on our three cameras during our trip.  Trying to narrow them down to a few per day is hard, especially when you are covering 25km or so.  That said, I’ve done my first review of the first 15 days, heading from Thonon-les-Bains on Lac Leman (Lake Geneva) to the winter paradise of Val D’Isere (also a ghost town in summer).

Hopefully over the coming weeks I can get the second half of the photos up.  Here is the link:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=151417&id=697266334&l=8bf785cdbc

Enjoy!

Posted by: Richard | August 26, 2009

Getting back….

Well, we’ve been back for four weeks and life has been so hectic that I have only reviewed photos up to Val D’Isere!  Not enough time to do photos with full time job.  In addition, I find that I need time walking each day, and it has ended up that I am walking to work and home 3 or 4 times a week (each way ~7km and 80 mins!).  I feel great and find I have so much more energy.  Not having a huge pack makes life really nice.  Having updating my iPod with all the new podcasts makes it even better.

I have put the first 10 days of our trip (Paris) onto facebook.  See if this link works:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=149491&id=697266334&l=9dabba9f90

Other than this, expect to get an email from Lynn or I collecting pledges…Hopefully this week.

Cheers,

Richard.

Posted by: Richard | July 29, 2009

Thoughts on Italy…

Well, here we are sitting in the cloisters of an old monastery getting out of the 37 degree heat of Rome.  What an incredible trip we have had, and though we still struggle up or down stairs early in the morning because of stiff legs and ankles, I think we are getting back into shape and no longer in pain.

Over the past two weeks, we have been enjoying life in Italy, making brief forays off of the coast into Tuscany and now finishing up in Roma.  It is hot but pleasant on the coast, mostly due to the breeze and the ability to jump into lovely water whenever we get a bit hot.  In Tuscany and hear in Rome, it is barely tolerable.  41 degrees one day in Siena and 37 today make it hard to get out.

The most perplexing thing about Italy is the driving.  Last weekend had 23 mortalities on the highways, and in just over 1,200 kms of our driving on highways, we saw four major accidents!!!  Contrast this to Canada, where an accident is very rare.  The cause for the accidents is easy to discern, drivers here are crazy.  The speed limit on highways is 110 km/h.  This results in about 25% of drivers going 70-90km/h, 50% going 110km/h and 25% going 150km/h.  The faster drivers have a unique way of motivating slower drivers, they do not slow down when approaching a slower car, but almost hit the rear of the car in front and stick about 2 feet off of the bumper.  This is a scary experience that we had several times, and makes the slower cars go a bit nuts trying to clear the way for the faster cars.  We had several experiences where a slower car, in a bid to get out of the way of a faster car would quickly dart in front of us, missing our bumper by what seemed a couple of inches.

Add to the unique driving described above, what I can only assume is a heavy lunchtime drinking culture, and afternoon driving is a real test of nerve.  About 2pm driving becomes more erratic, with 1 in 20 cars refusing to go into a lane and driving down the centre of highways or else trying to get three abreast on a 2-lane highway.  Bear in mind this is all at 110 km/h and you get an impression of what is going on.

My favorite part of the crazy driving occurred on our way back to France.  Lynn read one of the signs and said ‘I think the sign says that there is a car on fire up ahead’.  I laughed and didn’t believe her or her translation abilities (Lynn wants me to write here that she is actually really good at Italian, which she is).  What country would have a sign that alerts drivers that another car up ahead is on fire.  Well, Italy does, and a few minutes later we passed a truck that, although not technically on fire, had been a few minutes earlier.  Fireman were hosing it done, smoke was wafting in the air and other Italian drivers were trying to speed by on the margins of the road, lest they be delayed.  This was a lesson, Lynn is actually pretty good at translating Italian and don’t underestimate the regularity of bizarre traffic accidents.

Well, besides the driving, we have been very impressed with the Italian Riviera, enjoying lovely swims, great food and a beautiful location.  I found some english books and have gobbled up a few classics and the last three weeks of the Economist.  We are looking home to getting out of the heat and back to the temperate Rocky Mountains.

With this, I must be off…..

Posted by: Richard | July 19, 2009

GR5: Recuperation

July 19: Well, it has been hard to find internet, or maybe not that hard, but damnit we just want to relax and it is hard to find the time to write.

Since we arrived in Nice, we have had a great time.  We started by cleaning up and buying some clothes (as our walking clothes are basically done for public areas). We had a great walk on the promenade in Nice and a great dinner before picking up our rental care on the 14th (day after we did our walk) and heading to ITALY!!!!

Why Italy, well, we were done with French food.  While I love French food, 1.5 months of cheesy, creamy, buttery food left us wanting vegetable oils, and Italy fit the bill. 

Night 1: We drove our first day to San Remo, and found a 1920s hotel that was nice, but had seen better days.  Actually, it was an old palace from the 18th century, turned into a hotel in the 1920s and not much had been done since.  Our room had a sea view and we played on a tiny interesting beach that day.  We drove into San Remo and parked the car.  By chance we walked the wrong direction and spent an hour in the non interesting part of San Remo, before stumbling on the great part as we looked for the car. San Remo is a great little town and I would recommend staying there if you can.

Night  2 + 3: We had booked nothing, but I had the book ‘Inns of character and charm in Italy’ and we called a hotel in Finale Ligure, called Hotel Punta Est.  It looked lovely in the book and I found internet and Tripadvisor gave great reviews. We booked one night, but when we showed up we found out they had two nights.  This place is incredible, and we were astounded at how beautiful and romantic the hotel was.  We loved our time there, with day spent on the beach and evenings in the (only average) old town.  I had my best meal of the trip at the hotel, Penne all arrabiata.  MMMMMMmmm.  A funny occurance was the busboy talking to us about our trip and rolling his eyes at our time in France, ‘how can anybody eat that much French food?  They don’t know how to cook’ he said.  I found this very funny.

Night  4+5: I have always wanted to go and drive around Tuscany, and by chance a highly rated 16th century palace in Tuscany had a room available at a good rate for two nights.  We drove the 5 hours to Siena and checked into the Palazzo Ravizza.  For some reason, we got upgraded to a great suite with our own hottub and 6 english tv stations !!!!  Siena is a great town, with great gelato.  We walked the town the first night. 

The second day we drove through chianti on old roads and had a great time.  We realized that we were still tuckered from the long walk through the alps and didn’t have the desire to push through to see a whole bunch of villages.  We wanted to sit on a nice beach in a nice town and relax.  We decided we were going to come back from our drive and sort out our holiday utnil our flight home.  No more playing it by ear.

Nights 6 + 7:  We wanted to get back onto the sea, and Lynn suggested looking at Portovenere after all the other places I wanted were full.  She is so smart, and the nicest hotel in the town had one room available.  We drove here all day (including a 1 hour delay on the highway because of an accident) and came into a crowded lovely old fishing village.  We found our hotel, watched the Tour de France and then went for a swim in the sea.  After that, we went for a swim in the hotel pool, overlooking the sea and filled with salt water.

What a tough day, but we timed it right and came into the room for the last 7km of the days ride of the tour and then we got clean and walked the town, a great time.  A nice meal and now Lynn is watching tv and I am typing all this out!!!!

The rest of our trip.  We both loved Hotel Punta Est so much we are heading back there for four nights, then two in Menton (town beside Nice), then a night in Genoa and three nights in Roma and we are on the plane home….

What a great trip this has been, culture in Paris, stunning natural beauty and outdoors in the Alps and now the Italian Riviera, one of the most beautiful places in the world…..We are so lucky to be able to do this…Now, as Sting comes on the radio and it approaches midnight I need to head to bed to prepare for tomorrow.  Swimming and eating and reading…

Posted by: Richard | July 19, 2009

Day 28: To Nice…We’re done

July 13: After the heat of the walk, Lynn and I discussed that we couldn’t walk in the midday heat, as such, we left at 6.20am to get out of the heat.  This was very very smart.

Today was a short day, with one uphill and then a long descent into Nice.  We climbed the hill and I was reminded of Africa for the next hour.  The smell of the sun rising, the dirt, the city ahead filled all my senses.  On our final climb, with Sigor Ros on the iPod, I got a bit teary at what Lynn and I had done.  We had battled through a lot of pain to get here and I was so happy we had a lovely sunrise and the cool of the morning to finish this walk in.

Before we knew it, we were descending into the suburbs of Nice.  Lynn had found a map of Nice, which made life a heck of a lot easier.  We walked with Monday morning rush hour into Place Alexander Medecin, the ‘technical’ end of the GR5, but for us, the end was the sea. 

We stopped for a coffee and bought some fruit and yogurt.  We were stinky and we didn’t feel good about how bad we smelled in lovely Nice.

We got onto the road that would lead us to the sea and walked down, past the hotel we had booked and finally reached the sea.  It was a bit anti-climatic.  We had been basically alone for 5 weeks and here we were sharing a very personal achievement with promenade full of thousands of tourists.  We took a few snaps and then walked back to our hotel and checked in.

What a hell of a trip, 5 weeks and almost 700kms.  Watching the tour de France today going through where we walked, I think I will be amazed by our photos of what we saw.  While the trip went slowly at the start, it picked up pace near the end as we got tired, sore, injured and really just wanted to finish the trip.  I am proud that Lynn and I, with no real training, gritted our teeth and did this amazing walk through one of the most beautiful places in the world….We are very lucky to have the opportunity to do this.

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