Posted by: Richard | July 14, 2009

Day 20: To Maljasset

July 4: Well, today was perhaps our best day, as Lynn and I were in great form making incredible time across our route today.  We both felt great as we went over one of the highest cols on the route.

To further this blog becoming a discussion of our accommodations (because really how many ways can I describe peak, pass, flowers, lake, hot etc), we came into a refuge that was listed since 1995 or so in the French guidebook Routard.  This is a good sign, as it usually means good quality lodging and great food. 

As we were so quick today, we had a rest in the garden, with Lynn having a Corona and I took and Andelscott, a beer that is flavoured with Whisky.  It was the grossest beer I have had in a long time, though very popular in France for some reason.

Dinner was special, as the owner – chef made us gnocchi with local cheeses and alpine herbs he had recently picked.  Lynn and I loved it (even with the cheese overdose we’ve been having) and couldn’t have been happier.

Alas, the evening went downhill from there.  We were in a room that slept 6 people in two double beds and one bunkbed.  The owner had explained that he other two people in the room had requested the bunk bed.  We were surprised to see an older man in the bottom bunk and an older woman in the top bunk.  They looked a lot like a couple, though obviously they weren’t.  At dinner, they seemed like they were on a first date, with the man fidgeting with his hands like he didn’t know what to do with them and there being a lot of long silences.  This was just the start, as we woke up again and again in the night to the older woman snoring very loudly.  After a while, the man started banging on her bed to wake her up. I was groggy, but Lynn woke up and said that they had an argument or two about snoring, which the lady said she was not.  This continued every 30 minutes or so until dawn, when Lynn and I got the heck out as a thunderstorm was forecast the following morning and it was a long day with a couple of cols.

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